Why convert a tub to a shower?
Many homeowners rarely use the bathtub in a secondary bathroom, and a walk-in shower is easier to get into, especially for people with limited mobility. A conversion can make a small bathroom feel larger and more usable. Before you commit, think about who uses the bathroom now and who might later. If the house has only one tub, some buyers with small children may prefer to keep it, so a conversion in a primary bathroom while keeping a tub elsewhere is a common compromise.
Types of showers
- Prefabricated shower bases and wall panels made of acrylic, fiberglass or solid surface materials install quickly and have few seams to maintain.
- Tiled showers with a mortar bed or a pre-sloped foam base and a waterproofing membrane offer the most design flexibility.
- Curbless (zero-threshold) showers have no step at the entry. They're the most accessible option, but they require the floor to be recessed or built up so water drains properly, which is more involved in an existing bathroom.
- Low-curb showers are a middle ground, with a short step that's easier to build in existing floors.
Waterproofing is the critical part
A shower must be waterproof behind and beneath the finish surface. Tile and grout aren't waterproof on their own. A well-built tiled shower uses either a traditional system with a liner and mortar bed or a modern sheet or liquid-applied waterproofing membrane over the walls and floor, carefully detailed at corners, seams, niches, benches, valves and the drain. Ask the contractor which waterproofing system they use, whether it's applied to the walls as well as the pan, and whether they flood test the pan before tiling.
Drains and valves
A tub drain is usually in a different spot and a different size than a shower drain needs to be. Conversions typically involve moving or modifying the drain, which may mean opening the floor. A new shower valve should be pressure-balanced or thermostatic, which keeps water temperature steady when someone flushes a toilet elsewhere. If you're adding a handheld shower or body sprays, make sure the plumbing can supply enough water.
Glass, doors and curtains
Frameless glass looks clean but costs more and needs careful measurement after tile is installed. Framed and semi-frameless doors cost less. Open-entry showers without a door need careful layout to keep water inside. A curtain is still a practical, affordable choice.
Safety and accessibility
- Grab bars, or blocking in the walls so they can be added later.
- A bench or seat.
- A handheld shower on a slide bar.
- Slip-resistant floor tile; smaller tiles with more grout lines give better grip.
- Good lighting.
Ventilation
A shower adds a lot of moisture to a small room. An exhaust fan vented to the outdoors, sized for the bathroom and run during and after showers, helps prevent mold and peeling paint. Fans that vent into the attic cause problems; ask the contractor to confirm where the fan discharges.
Permits
Moving drains, changing plumbing and adding electrical work usually require permits. Ask who pulls the permit and whether the price includes it.
What a complete conversion includes
1. Removing the tub and surrounding walls down to the studs. 2. Checking and repairing framing and subfloor. 3. Relocating or modifying the drain and installing a new valve. 4. Installing a shower base or pan and waterproofing. 5. Tile or panels, grout and sealant. 6. Fixtures, glass or a curtain rod, and any grab bars. 7. Exhaust fan and lighting as needed. 8. Cleanup and a walk-through.
Questions to ask
- Which waterproofing system will you use, and do you flood test the pan?
- Will the drain need to move, and does that mean opening the floor?
- What kind of valve will you install?
- Is a permit needed, and is it included?
- What warranty covers labor, and what do manufacturer warranties require?